Quality Over Quantity - Selvedge Denim

8 min read

Before I begin, I'd like to give a big thanks to all that dropped by last week to check out the first installment of The Brute Supply Co. Featuring one of my personal favorites from Red Wing Shoes. The response to starting up The Brute Supply has been pretty awesome, I really appreciate all of your support, and I hope to keep on improving the quality of content throughout the journey.

Anyhow let's get cracking with this week's feature on The Brute Supply Co journal  

There is no better way to wear your iconic Red Wings, other than with an awesome bit of selvedge denim. 

Selvedge Raw Denim The Pike Brothers

Having the mindset of not buying much, but willing to spend a bit more on higher quality products comes in handy when in the world of raw denim and quality goods. Clothes are so much more than common need. They protect us from the elements, uphold standards of propriety, living, and style. Clothes also speak to us in various different ways. Each different garment worn has its own unique personality, they speak through aesthetics, nostalgia, and construction.

Clothes tell stories, not just about the wearer, but about the world the wearer lives in and where they come from. It's often one will see something they like, save the pennies and make the purchase. Yes, this click happy impulse online shopper was once me.
As I matured into my own style, I started to wonder where my clothes were coming from. This was all brought to light by my good friends at Concrete Matter, who specialise in high-quality goods and original vintage menswear.
A thought regarding the environment and mass production had been sitting at the back of my mind since I entered the fashion industry, yet I made myself conscious about how fast fashion and cheap consumer goods are impacting the environment at scale. I pledged to myself that I'd take more care when purchasing goods of desire. 
(This was one of the main reasons I started The Brute Supply Co, to become more involved with the global community of quality goods, and contribute in a more effective way to the environment) 

Raw Selvedge Denim The Pike Brothers

There is a sense of care that goes into crafting a solid pair of jeans. The Japanese have mastered the creation of selvedge denim, cultivating it into an art form. To cut a long story short, Denim is a cotton twill textile in which the weft (the transverse thread) passes under 2 or more warp threads (the longitudinal threads) 

Japanese Denim Construction

When the word denim springs to mind, it's usually the indigo type that people think of.
The pair of jeans worn by @mlfreems in the snaps throughout this journal post are from The Pike Brothers. The brand specialises in the production of authentic outdoor and workwear inspired by the 20th century. The Pike Brothers use a mixture of different denim blends to construct their jeans, one being Japanese. Selvage denim can only be woven to a width of 31", thus making it more expensive to produce due to the required skill it takes to make. 
Weaving Shibusa: There is a popular story that some people think is true. In which the shuttle loom machine was sold to Japan so they could make denim. But no matter what machine it is, it cannot make jeans by simply being turned on.

So why is Japanese denim significantly better than other types

There are many important qualities that denim-heads and fabric fanatics look for when selecting their next indigo item. Denim to some is a way of life and a true companion when going about their everyday life. The fabric matures with the owner and the fades tell stories. I'll be quickly rattling through a few of the features one goes through when seeking out the perfect piece of denim.

selvedge denim construction


The majority of denim made today uses synthetic dye which is far cheaper and contains fewer impurities than natural dye, premium denim often uses natural dye throughout their construction process. The Japanese are renowned for crafting the highest quality of denim. Starting with the first stages of making the denim. This builds the foundation for the garment, and hugely impacts how the final product will look and feel. The full process consists of acquiring the cotton, spinning, dying, weaving and the fabric finishes. The final few details can make all the difference to a true denimhead. Depending on the brands creativity and heritage, they will use different techniques to secure the dimensional stability of the denim and enhance it's aesthetics. 

Quote: It's part of the Japanese soul to want to try and make things better and better.
(Blue Blooded)

To be honest I could go on and on about how denim is produced and the different ways to wear it. What I can tell you in short, is that There are many ways to wear your denim.  

I try and keep things simple when styling different denim products. I stick to heritage brands such as Nudie Jeans, Tellason, Pike Brothers, Levis (vintage), and Iron Heart Denim

If you've ever heard the word selvage or selvedge thrown about when discussing jeans and not known what it means, well, here it is in the most simple of terms. The word comes from self-edge, this refers to the natural end roll of fabric which, when crafted into a pair of jeans, prevents unraveling of the material. 

The Brute Supply 101

To keep things fresh in The BRute Supply wardrobe, a pair of Grim Tim's from Nudie Jeans are on the hit list. To be fair I don't think their e-com pics do their Jeans justice, I find it's always best to go and try them on. Especially when making a quality investment. 

Anyway, I think thats enough about the much-loved fabric for this journal post,

Once again thanks for joining me for the first denim feature, I hope you enjoyed a little bit of style and info.

Cheers

ML the brute supply co

blue blooded denim hunters and jeans culture